Tuesday, September 29, 2009

 
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The Weekenders

All last week, all of the volunteers were planning a weekend trip to the northern town of Chefchauoen which is nestled in the Riz Mountains. It is known for its beautiful landscapes and large waterfalls. We found out that it is not very easy for a group of 10-14 people with different work schedules to plan a simple trip. That combined with the fact that we are in a country where the transportation schedules are as inconsistent as you would expect in a 'developing country' makes for a lot of confusion.
We finally decided to just 'wing it' and figure out everything on our own. Because Lyall & I had to work relatively late on Friday we were the last ones to depart. Ronan came with us as well. Simon wanted to spend the weekend at home.
The three of us left the house around 7PM on Friday with a vague idea where the bus station was and no idea when and where the buses were running.
On arrival at the bus station, after a brief encounter between our taxi driver and a bus driver about the latter's lack of a yield at a questionable intersection, we found out that no buses were running to Chefchaouen or its closest neighbor, Tatouen until 5 in the morning.
That was not appealing to us. Then, we walked to the CTM bus station which is a fancier, more private bus company which was relatively close. Their best option at the time was a bus to Tatouen at 12:50AM. Thinking that it would make for a great adventure we quickly agreed to buy the tickets. That meant that we had roughly four hours to spend in the rain in South East Rabat which is less than exciting.
We spent the better part of that time in a restaurant called the 'Coq Taybar' where I had a fantastic rotisseried half-chicken and the others had mixed kebabs. We were the only customers which was eerie but charming.
Back at the bus station we filled the rest of our time playing blackjack with frustratingly tiny cards.
Finally, the bus arrived at 1:30AM and we were very excited to get on the bus and meet up with the others.
At first glance, the bus was very clean and it seemed like the ride would be very enjoyable. In retrospect, it was very enjoyably as we sped across the African countryside. However, the seats left no room for the legs and the young man in front of me decided to put his seat all the way back even though he was being obnoxious with his friends for most of the ride.
Needless to say, I did not sleep at all.
Upon arrival at Tetouan, we could not refrain from making jokes about the planet that Luke Skywalker hails from called Tatooine. They do, in fact, look very similar.
Anyways, we got a taxi to Chefchaouen and got to enjoy the mountain views as we sped around the roads at very high speeds in the rain, which seemed to follow us from Rabat. The driver made a few questionable passes on the left but I was too drained to care.
We got to Chefchaouen at 6AM.

Before we tried to contact any of the other volunteers we searched for a cafe where we could enjoy a nice coffee or hot chocolate. Because Chefchaouen is in the North, the majority of the locals speak Arabic and Spanish as opposed to Arabic and French. This was a problem because none of us are close to competent when it comes to Spanish. That is why Ronan and I ended up with glasses of hot milk instead of hot chocolate. I am not a fan of hot milk so I tried to put some sugar in it in hopes of creating some type of hybrid ice cream. That made it worse. We were forced to order a black coffee and use the milk to balance everything out. This worked quite well even though our waiter was laughing at us the entire time. Again, I was too tired to care.

After that small dose of energy we called the others and slowly made our way to their hotel where they had all just woken up after a good night's sleep. We found them in the small restaurant and shared their complimentary breakfast that the three of us had to pay for. The hotel was a beautiful building in the Medina and the roof offered a tremendous view of the rest of the town and the surrounding mountains. From there we could see rain clouds.
Our next step was to get a room in the same hotel which wasn't a problem.

Then, it took about an hour to round up everybody, the final tally was 12 people.
Because it was very foggy, we decided not to climb the large mountain that is very popular because we wanted a good view. We opted to hire a mini-bus that would take us down to the area near the waterfalls.
This is a very funny place because, as the bus pulls up, nearly a dozen men come rushing up to you offering to either be your guide to the falls or to sell you hashish or in some cases, both.
After a long debate we decided to hire a guide which turned out to be the best decision that I have ever made in my life, probably. Not that I made the decision, I initially did not think that a guide was necessary, but i severely regret ever dismissing the idea.
Moving on, as we set off on our trek (I didn't realize that it was going to be a 'trek' so I was poorly prepared. Also, it started to rain just as we set off for what turned out to be a six hour hike through the foresty mountains.
After 45 minutes we heard to the deep rumble that can only come from a fairly large waterfall. This was music to our ears as we were already very tired and a little wet. We paused for about five minutes to take artsy pictures and set off again at our guides request. This was around the time when a man in a leather jacket joined us. Nobody knew where he came from and the guide had never seen him before. He was just walking with us. He was in the front and we figured that he knew where he was going but a few times the guide had to steer us back in the correct direction. Actually, at the time we had no idea what was the right direction because sometimes we went pretty far from the river. After two hours we stopped under a rock formation that offered us cover from the rain which had become ridiculous. Those who had the foresight to bring lunches were biting into their Banana and Nutella sandwiches as I stared at them longingly.
The guide said the we only had 20 minutes to go until we reached the 'big waterfall.'
So, we set off once more with hopes of reaching the waterfall safely. At this point, everybody was soaked to the bone so there was no point in walking across the river via rocks and everybody just waded through. I was worried because I had brought my iPod which was in my pocket because I thought the hotel was kind of sketchy.
After an hour, we reached a pile of boulders in the path. The guide made his way up quite quickly as we summoned our strength for what was to be the last step into reaching the waterfall.

Upon arrival, everybody conceded that the absurd hike and the freezing rain was completely worth it.
Upon looking back over what I just wrote, I realized that this is far too long so I will summarize the rest of the trip a little more efficiently.
Anyways, a few brave souls decided to swim in the freezing water. That did not look fun but I might as well have because I was soaked anyway.
We trekked back in double time because we had no time to lose before it got dark. We, somehow, made it back to the hotel and I put on my best pajamas and softest 'jumper' as the Brits call it.
We had a fantastic dinner at a warm and comfortable restaurant. I had chicken kebabs.
After staying up far too late playing Go Fish we went to bed and woke up early to go to the beach town of Assila. We got there by way of Tatouen and then Tangier and finally we caught a 30 minute train to Assila. This was a very nice, picturesque beach town with beautiful murals in the medina. It was a fun and short visit. I think we will go back sometime for a proper beach weekend. We caught a train back to Rabat that evening and enjoyed a relaxing trip back home.
All told, I got about 4 hours of sleep from Friday morning until Sunday night but I don't regret going at all.

This week has been very tiring because I have class in the morning. I go home for lunch (remember the 45 minute commute) then I immediately go back for my Arabic lesson and then another English class in the evening. It is nice to have a routine but even better to have spontaneous weekend outings.
That said, we are all going to Marrakesh this weekend.

In other news, Simon moved out because his time with Projects Abroad is finished. However, he is staying in a hotel up the street which means he is still very much in contact with us no matter how much he claims to "'ate ze Americains"
More pictures are coming.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Adventures in the Land of the Shaolin and Tatooine.

I, along with 11 of the other volunteers, had an intensely bizarre weekend excursion to the North of Morocco. I am going to do my best to convert my thoughts about the trip into words. So, maybe tomorrow I will have a detailed account of what happened.
Also, my computer is being very picky about putting photos on the blog so I will try to correct that as well.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Frogs vs. Roast Beef

With the arrival of two new volunteers into our house, a new war has begun. These two new chaps are from England and, naturally, Simon has started to speak out against them. Simon's favorite insult in regard to Englishmen is, "F--- ze roast beeuf!" Ronan and Lyall remain cool as they respond with something witty about the French being frogs.
Ronan is a very nice, guy and, like me, is taking a gap year before college. However, he is going to Oxford. He arrived on Sunday and his bag is still in Casablanca. Actually, I think he's just gone to get it.
Lyall is a 33 year-old football (soccer) coach. Its been his hobby for the past 15 years. He just quit his job and decided to pursue teaching and coaching.
In other news, Ramadan is officially over. That means things in the Medina are going to settle down significantly. This is a very sad prospect. Even though I have come to recognize the faces and wares of various vendors, you never know what exciting new things you are going to see. For example, two days ago, I saw a man walking up to people attempting to sell, among other things, socks, a watch, a flashlight, a power strip and an electric razor. I must comment on the high quality of all the fake sunglasses, gold watches and shoes that I have seen. They are all quite convincing.
However, one thing that I will not be sad to see go are all of the beggars. It is as if each one tries to one-up each other with their maladies. The one that trumps all, even the singing albino, twin, gypsy girls, is the woman with Elephantitis in her leg. She presents it proudly as she sits in her wheelchair, for all to see. I cannot even think of anything to compare it to.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Max is sad because he is going bald at the age of 25.

The title is a sentence from the lesson that I taught today. I feel that that is an English phrase that will help these young minds accomplish a lot in the future.

In other news, Ramadan is coming to a close which is a fantastic reason for celebration. Last night I broke the fast at the TOP MARK CENTRE with Hassan and about 20 students. The Ramadan BreakFast is a pretty standard meal that I realized with no real main course. There is a lot of bread and traditional tomato soup along with these intensely sweet and sticky pastries. After the meal, we drink tea and sing. I've heard this occasion be compared to Christmas. Although I don't understand a word of the conversation or the songs, I just picture everybody singing 'Let it Snow' and all is well.

Now, I would like to take some time to comment on the driving trends in Morocco:
1. If you own a car, you use the horn more than you use the brake.
2. If you are a passenger, you do not use your seatbelt, especially if you are under the age of 10.
3. If you ride a motorbike/scooter/etc. you don't wear a helmet and you disregard every rule.
4. If you are a motorbike passenger you need to have a strong grip because you are bound to fall off.
5. If you own a bike, it is probably broken.
6. If you take the bus, you enjoy yelling.
7. If you are in a taxi, you like to push and mutter about Americans.
8. If you drive a taxi, you are always in a bad mood.
9. If you can't afford any of the above, you ride on the back of tractor trailers or any vehicle that you can grab on to.
10. If you are in a vehicle in Morocco, you will end up driving on the opposite side of the road for at least 20 seconds every day.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

A trip to the museum.

Today, Hasan (the director of my school, the TOP MARK CENTRE) organized a trip to the Rabat Museum of Archaeology. His plan consisted of ferrying students 20 minutes to the museum in his little VW hatchback. His 'friend' with a bigger car had fallen through so he was forced to serve as the school bus.
Once we got there, the museum staff were unaware of the fact that a school group was coming but we payed our fee of approximately $1.20 and were free to roam the halls. Once Hasan arrived with the final group of students he began to make very astute observations about the anatomy of the ancient Greeks, knowledge he attained from looking at the statues in the museum.
Despite all of that, it was a very enjoyable place.

In other news, our house has not had hot water for the past two days.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

My brain hurts.

Arabic lessons are very intense. There are three or four different 'H' sounds that are apparently very distinct. I can't tell the difference yet. Also, I have been speaking a ton of French because my roommate is French and my family knows know English at all.
I'm forgetting how to spell basic words in English.
I had an interesting but relaxing day. When I woke up it was pouring rain. In the taxi, on the way to work, we encountered several lakes in the middle of a main road in Sale. (Rabat's neighbor city)
The taxi drivers have no fear and just kept going through the lake, past other taxis who ran out of momentum and drivers bailing them out.
Once at work, I taught Old McDonald. I felt bad because the kids are around my age but they need to understand the difference between E and I and E and I.

I got home and lunch was waiting for me. That consisted of a fried egg and french fries.

After I ate, I had a beautiful nap and was awaken by Simon because I told him that I would get a haircut.
I managed to avoid getting a Euro-mullet and I am very happy with it overall. I also got a hot shave. That was frightening.

I am very content after this very relaxing/rainy day.

Moroccan haircut.

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Sunday, September 13, 2009

Rue Mohammad V. Basically, main street.

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ze beach

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Sambaaaargh!

I really enjoy the weekends in Morocco.
Friday night, we found an establishment that serves alcohol so that pleased some of the British volunteers.
Saturday, I got up early to take the train to a nice beach South of Rabat. However, no trains were running that direction Saturday so we just hopped on the bus.
The beach was fantastic and me and another volunteer got some free surf lessons from a very nice surfer dude who lived in a surf institution right on the beach. (if you dont understand the title, just search 'Surfer Dude' on YouTube.
We spent all day on the beach and I got a little burned but that was seemingly unavoidable.
Yes Mama, I put on sunscreen, SPF 70, twice.

Today, I slept until 1 and then I ate lunch and then I slept until dinner.
Its been a great weekend.

P.S. Mad props to the Ravens!

Thursday, September 10, 2009

The fam.

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We are the World

It rained for the first time since I've been here today. On the way home from work in the taxi I saw numerous cars and trucks sliding down the smallest of slopes. It seemed as if it hadn't rained for years. The streets were oddly empty.

Today, in school, I got to demonstrate my artistic abilities as I taught the youngsters animals. I drew a cat/owl type thing, a polar bear/gremlin type thing, a camel and a Katie dog.
However, because the volunteer in charge of the advanced English class wasn't here today, the director of the school and I had to improvise. The result of that was me writing all of the lyrics to 'We are the World' on the board. The jovial director, Hasan, had the video on the school's computer and we watched the 7 minute clip twice.
Bruce Springsteen's expression as he sings with Stevie Wonder is priceless.

The family is great. The only English word they know is 'EAT!!!!!'

Simon, my French roomate is doing well. We get along great even though he is a chain-smoking, divorced, 27 year-old man. We have good times.

Send news from Baltimore.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

First day of school!

I had my first day of school today. I have a 15 minute taxi ride to Sale, Rabat's sister city, and they will only leave when the sedan has 7 passengers. Its hot and gross. Also, in order to get to work we drive by the most horrendous slums that I have ever seen. The taxi will only take one so far so after I get out, I have to walk another 15 minutes down a median strip. Passing by me on either side are horses pulling carts filled with people but no driver. I NEED to bring my camera. The school, TOP MARK CENTRE, sits on top of a bank. There is a very enthusiastic director of the school in addition to another volunteer, a German lady named Violet. We decided to commute together because its terrible to go it alone.
The kids are super enthusiastic. I will be teaching a beginner English class until Violet leaves in two weeks and then I will take over her advanced class.
We are already taking a field trip to the archaeology museum.
I have to go now because all of the Projects Abroad volunteers rendez-vous in 10 minutes at the Medina gates.
I remain optimistic.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

All is well...

I realized that I live 5 minutes from the beach. It is on the Atlantic and the beach is just as nice as Rehoboth. However, as opposed to the Sandcastle Motel overlooking the beach, there are actual castles overlooking the beach. The men wear ANYTHING to the beach but most of the women wear very traditional clothes in the water, and some of the more forward thinkers wear jeans.
I have a meeting tomorrow with a Projects Abroad representative so I will finally see the school that I will be teaching at. I may also get a phone.
I have not been able to take my camera out as much as I would like to but more pictures are on the way.
My family is great. We live above a pastry shop so it constantly smells delicious. Markus, the Swiss, left yesterday so now Simon and I hang out all day.

I hope school is going well back in Baltimore and I hope to hear from everybody soon.

Friday, September 4, 2009

I spy Africa!


I arrived in Rabat today after about 20 hours of travelling. I really like my family so far and there are two other people living with them. One is from Switzerland and the other from France. That means my French will improve rapidly. The above picture was taken as I first saw Africa. If you are one of my former english teachers and you are reading this, please excuse the passive voice. I got a quick nap in but I was woken up for the Break Fast which was a delicious meal. It involved french fries. I am very optimistic but the internet is very slow.
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Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Get ready for departure.

So, I am leaving today. I have been eating this much as humanly possible this week because I realized that I am going to be arriving in Morocco in the middle of Ramadan. That means no food or water from dawn 'til dusk. In that case, instead of going on a lunch break with my colleagues, we will just take turns describing our ideal meals in great detail. I fly out of Philadelphia sometime this evening so I will be leaving Baltimore around 1:30 PM.
I have a four hour layover in Paris, so I will stock up on pastries and other delights to munch on during the daylight hours in Rabat.

Also, I just bought a new camera so I will soon be putting up pictures of my adventures to go along with these brilliant words.